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Glue is applied along the stripwood braces. Once this subassembly has been clamped and the glue cured, two 1/8" holes along the bottom edge are drilled as mounting holes. ( This clearance is on the same edge as the semicircle). Two additional pieces of stripwood, 1/2" less than the remaining side length were cut and glued along the edge, butting the top brace and leaving 1/2" clearance along the bottom for the riser mount brace. On each sub-plate, a 1/2" piece of stripwood was glued along the long edge opposite the clearance hole. This hole provided clearance for the plate strengthening braces already installed ( see picture) Then, two sub-plates were cut along the line, splitting the clearance hole into two semi-circles. I actually marked out two copies on the plywood piece, so that I could drill a 1-1/4" hole along the line between the two. I measured a second piece of plywood not quite as tall as the original riser plates - less the depth of the hinges or about 3/4". I further engineered the design of the riser plate to increase its stiffness and this resulted in much smoother motion. UPDATE: After operating the torso, I was not satisfied because there was too much flexibility in the riser plates.
![parallel to serial converter rc net-word parallel to serial converter rc net-word](https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/uploads/articles/parallel-capacitor-corrects-lagging-power-factor-inductive-load.png)
Mount with glue as you did the other piece, Note these steps can be done together on each of the four large plates, to minimize construction time delays to to glue curing times. Then slide a second upright piece up snug on the other side of the servo and trace the 1/2" square outline of its base on the cross arm. For the second piece, place the servo on the mounting base so that its mounting tabs overlap the upright stripwood. Once it has cured, this screw can be removed. Use the pilot hole you drilled to screw in a small screw into the wood, to clamp it to the plate while the glue cures. Drill a pilot hole in the center of the square that you have just drawn and glue the stripwood piece upright in the square. Place it upright at the end of the servo mounting base and trace it's outline. Cut two pieces of stripwood 1-1/4" long (Actually, you will need 8 of these). Glue it along the center line with Gorilla glue. From the center to this mark is the length of this strip wood piece. From the mark furthest from the center of the plate, add another 1/2". Mark both sides of the servo and extend these marks across the cross arm. With a round servo horn in place, slide the servo mounting tabs along the center line, until the mark is halfway between the edge of the servo horn and its center. Make a mark on the center line at the 3-1/2" mark. Use one of your servos to determine the length of this piece. On this arm we will glue another piece of stripwood at right angles. (The sketches show the plate at each point in this step). One of the cross arms will be at a right angle from the side of the riser mount wood strip that is not on the center line. This space will be needed to insert the Riser Plate in Step 5. This was glued to the cross arm at right angles to the side of the riser mount strip closest to the centerline.Do not butt this piece against the riser mount, but space it with a scrap of plywood so that there is a 3mm space. On the second sketch, I add a 5" piece of stripwood for strength. Clothespins make great inexpensive clamps for this purpose. I like to apply the glue to one part and spray the other part with a fine water mist. This piece is glued with Gorilla Glue so that one edge is just on the center line, centered on the cross braces. I use a cut off saw for square edges this is critical in some steps, so be accurate. I originally had a shorter piece specified for this support, but practical experience proved it did not provide enough support for the servo linkages added later. Centered along one cross arm, a piece of 10" long stripwood was cut. This allowed the corners to be drilled on a press with a 1" Forstner bit and the cutouts were made from these access holes with a saber saw. All of the cutout material have rounded corners, to make it easier and neater to cut.The picture shows this rounded corner in the center, but it was used at the outside corners as well.
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The plates have a 1" outer diameter circle, joined by a cross of 1" wide radial arms. After some experimenting, measuring plastic penguin toys waist sizes (Rico is pretty broad) and some estimating/resizing/projecting in Excel, I came up with the following diameters for the plates (from the bottom up) 10", 12", 11", 10", 6".
![parallel to serial converter rc net-word parallel to serial converter rc net-word](https://cdn.sparkfun.com/assets/c/6/1/0/6/51ba181ace395fcc4d000002.png)
There were five plates required to divide the torso into four sections.